Coral Bay, St John: Complete Travel Guide

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Curious about what’s on the quieter side of St. John, opposite from all the bars and commercialism of Cruz Bay? If you’ve visited this site before, you know that not only am I a huge fan of St John in the US Virgin Islands, but also that I am enamored with peaceful Coral Bay.  This may be surprising, since Coral Bay is on the total opposite side of the island from the ferry dock, has less shopping available, and is a little further from the beaches.

There is actually much to love about this side of the island, and I’m about to explain why. Yes, Coral Bay does lack some of the conveniences that Cruz Bay offers, but do not be afraid to stay here.

A lot of the vacation rentals are perched high up on hills with incredible views, making them the perfect retreat after a long beach day. Coral Bay also has much less noisy traffic than Cruz Bay, which adds to the relaxing atmosphere.

Even if you don’t choose to stay in Coral Bay, it is still worth a visit during your time in St. John. You might be reluctant, thinking that time spent in Coral Bay could not trump a visit to the North Shore or Cruz Bay.  Those are great places, but if you want to get to know another dimension of St. John, then a stop in Coral Bay is an absolute must.

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Everything You Need to Know About Coral Bay in St John

• Coral Bay History
• How to get to Coral Bay
• Restaurants in Coral Bay
• Things to do in Coral Bay
• Beaches Near Coral Bay
• Stay in Coral Bay
• Things to Know about Coral Bay

Brief History of Coral Bay:

Although Cruz Bay has St. John’s main harbor now, Coral Bay was actually the side of the island to first be settled by Europeans. The Dutch first came to Coral Bay from St. Thomas in 1718, and created their first settlement at Estate Carolina. These colonizers were attracted to Coral Bay’s natural harbor and the potential to set up cotton and sugar cane plantations.

Meanwhile, the British in nearby Tortola were keeping a close eye and did not like the presence of the Danes. However, they were never able to successfully overtake St. John and eventually gave up. By the end of the 1700’s, the Danish were running about 109 plantations all over the island, and enslaved individuals far outnumbered those who were free.

Today, there isn’t much left of this colonial past in Coral Bay, although you can still find some ruins, like those of an old fort up the hill in Fortsberg. Nearby Coral Bay, you can also see some plantation ruins, such as Annaberg near Francis and Leinster Bays.

I also found it interesting visiting Copenhagen and hearing this story from the Danish perspective. To be honest, much wasn’t said about it, other than when one of my tour guides mentioned, “We used to have three islands in the Caribbean”.

How to Get to Coral Bay in St John:

• Step 1: If you are not already in the U.S. Virgin Islands, you will first need to fly into neighboring St. Thomas (STT). I wrote all about getting to St. John in this post here.
• Step 2: Take the 20-minute ferry ride between St. Thomas and St. John to arrive in St. John’s Cruz Bay. The ferry leaves once per hour and costs $8.15 per person each way (with an additional $4.00 for checked bags).
• Step 3: Driving a rental car is the easiest way to cross St. John from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay, although taxis are available too. There is also a bus that will take you from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay, but it’s not always the most reliable. Route 10 is technically the quickest driving route, but North Shore Road passes the beaches, making it very scenic.

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Restaurants in Coral Bay:

Although you’ll find less restaurants in Coral Bay than in Cruz Bay, there are still plenty of gems available. Here is a listing of the best places to eat in Coral Bay and what I love about them (note: don’t be surprised if some of them only take cash or Venmo):

• Skinny Legs: This divey bar and grill is an island staple. Proudly serving up refreshing blender-free drinks, Skinny Legs’ specialty is delicious, juicy burgers that are a requirement on every St. John trip. You can enjoy live music here on occasion too.
• Rhumb Lines: With their Southeast Asia-inspired decor, Rhumb Lines offers an atmospheric patio, as well as covered seating for those rainy nights. The best dish on the menu is pad thai, which you must finish off with their addictive peanut butter chocolate pie. I look forward to that pie every year!

• Pizza Bar in Paradise: The delectable pies and calzones from this tiny restaurant are always in high demand. Here are my two tips for a successful experience: order takeout to avoid long waits at the restaurant and be sure to call early in the evening, as supplies often run out.
• Miss Lucy’s: Famous awesome community turnouts at Thursday open mic nights, Miss Lucy’s has the most incredible tableside view of Coral Bay. I recommend visiting for a casual lunch by the sea.

• Johnny Lime: Stop into this new BBQ joint in Coral Bay for a plate of smoked meats with comforting sides and refreshing cocktails. If you show up on Friday, ordering the weekly smoked lobster special is a must! Other fun nights include Monday’s Bingo, Tuesday’s open mic, and Wednesday’s trivia.
• Lime Out: Lime Out is a floating taco bar in Coral Harbor that can only be reached by boat. The concept may seem a bit gimmicky, but the tacos are actually delicious and it’s fun to eat them on floating rafts. You can book your trip to Lime Out here! No boat? No worries! When they are slow (after 3pm), you can order Lime Out’s tacos as takeout and they will deliver them to you at the dock behind Skinny Legs.

• Ekaete Pink Corner: This is THE place to go in Coral Bay to get your hands on authentic local Caribbean fare. Essentially a one-woman show, plus or minus a waiter or two, the meats for curries and roti are slow cooked with love in the wee hours of the morning.
• Surf Club Cantina: One of the last restaurants standing in one of my favorite areas of Coral Bay, near the Cocoloba Shopping Center and Dolphin Market. Sadly, Aqua Bistro and Salty Mongoose could not survive St. John’s changing tides over the past several years. However, Surf Club Cantina will still allow you to sip an awesome Margarita (if Tyler is working) while munching on house made chips and guac and enjoying pretty water views.

Also Read: The Best Restaurants in St. John USVI

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8 Best Things to Do Near Coral Bay:

Coral Bay, albeit quiet and less populated than Cruz Bay, has plenty of things to do. Find historical ruins, hiking paths, and incredible views that are well loved by both locals and tourists alike.

1. Visit the Old Fort

Take a drive over to Fortsberg in Coral Bay.  Heading east, you’ll make a right onto Fortsberg Road off of Route 10. Park somewhere along the bumpy driveway before it gives way to a rough hiking path. 

Follow the path to the top, and you’ll eventually reach an old 18^th century fort that dates back to when the Danish first colonized the island. Note: This path is not very well-maintained, so you may be fighting some vegetation on the way up.

2. Check out the Salt Pond

Take a scenic drive along Coral Bay, all the way down to the Salt Pond.  You’ll have to first park in a small dirt lot, and then hike about a quarter-mile until you come to Salt Pond Beach.  Hike past the beach and follow the trail ahead until you reach a large pool of brown foamy water.  It might not be the prettiest, but it is actually an important part of St. John’s ecosystem. 

3. See Wild Waves at Drunk Bay

From the salt pond, turn left and continue on your hike to Drunk Bay, as it’s only a short distance further.  What you will see is a wilder, rockier side of St. John that faces out towards the open, unprotected waters of the Atlantic. 

Unlike the gentle waves of the North Shore beaches, the waves on this windy bay collapse onto the shore with a bit more force.  Do take note of the many coral rock formations (called jumbies) left by others, and leave your own contribution for future visitors to find.

Join a Guided Hiking and Snorkel Tour to Salt Pond & Drunk Bay Here!

4. Hike the Ram Head Trail

Since you’re already on a role, make a day of your time spent near Salt Pond Bay.  The Ram Head Trail starts at the east end of Salt Pond Beach, near the Salt Pond.  The trail follows a narrow, bumpy path, while providing stunning views of the sea against beautiful rocky cliffs along the way. 

Once you make it to the top of the ram head, you’ll be greeted with miles and miles of the shimmering Caribbean Sea, as well as an incredible view of St. John’s South Shore behind you. 

The trail out and back is about two miles long and offers very little shade.  In addition, there are parts of the trail that pass very steep cliffs and low-lying cacti, so mind your footing and take selfies with care. Finally, protect yourself from the sun and heat by bringing a hat, sunscreen, and a water bottle.

5. Visit the animals at the Carolina Corral

I gave a thorough overview of the Carolina Corral in my comprehensive Things to Do in St. John post, so I won’t repeat myself too much here. Basically, if horseback riding along the beach or visiting adopted animals is calling your name, a stop at the Carolina Corral is for you.

6. Kayak in Hurricane Hole

Over many years of taking in the magnificent views of Hurricane Hole from Fortsberg, I badly wanted to paddle those gentle turquoise bays. A few years ago, this wish came true when we rented kayaks from Reef2Peak (rent your single or tandem kayaks here).

It was one of the best experiences we have had on the island and offered the unique perspective of seeing Coral Bay from the water. Our kayaks allowed us to explore more bays than we’ve ever had access to, and we were even able to stop at a deserted rock beach for lunch. I highly recommend this experience as a full or half day excursion.

Join a Guided Kayak Tour of Hurricane Hole Here!

7. Watch the sunrise over Coral Bay

Coral Bay faces east and therefore is the optimal side of the island for watching the sunrise.  There’s nothing like the peace and solitude of this glorious sight over the sweeping expanse of the Caribbean.

8. Annaberg Ruins

While not in Coral Bay, these ruins of an old Danish sugar plantation are not very far away and are definitely worth a visit. In fact, you could technically hike to them from Coral Bay via the Johnny Horn Trail (it’s a toughie though). There are so few structures left intact from the 18th and 19th century colonization of St. John, so an educational visit to the former Annaberg Plantation is definitely worth your time.

9. Hike to Waterlemon Bay

If you crave spending a morning getting lost in the hills of St. John, hike the Johnny Horn Trail to the north side of the island, near Annaberg. Start at the 18th century Emmaus Moravian Church on Centerline Road and hike about 1.8 miles to Waterlemon Bay. Along the way, stop at the Windy Hill Greathouse Ruins for one of the best views on the island out to Waterlemon Cay.

Expect a good workout, as you’ll encounter a 400 foot elevation gain on the way up and the total roundtrip distance is almost 4 miles (depending on how far down the beach you walk). Wear sturdy shoes, since the trail is pebbly in sections and can be slippery.

Also Read: The Best Things to do in St. John USVI

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Closest St John Beaches to Coral Bay:

While there really aren’t great swimming beaches in Coral Bay, you need not go far to find some.  Coral Bay is about a 10-15 minute drive from St. John’s gorgeous North Shore, as well as some other nearby choices if you want to mix it up.  Here are the closest beaches to Coral Bay that are worth visiting:

• Maho Bay: (10 min) One of the gentlest beaches on St. John. Come here to rent a stand-up paddle board or snorkel equipment from Reef2Peak and find some sea turtles. Maho Crossroads across the street is also a very popular lunch spot.
• Francis Bay: (11 min) Requires a short hike to reach and referred to as the “new Maho” since the hurricanes. This is due to the fact that Francis Bay still has the gentle waters of Maho, without the commercialism that has developed and killed the original vibe.
• Cinnamon Bay: (11 min) Cinnamon is a nice long beach with powdery white sand. Adding to the already beautiful scenery are the hilltop mansions of Peter Bay to the west. The Cinnamon Bay Campground offers snorkel, kayak, and paddle board rentals here too.
• Hansen Bay: (12 min) This lesser-visited beach is also a great place to do some kayaking, paddle boarding, or snorkeling.  While there is not ample shade on this beach, there is ample parking and the water is beautiful. Note that the property owners do request a donation to use the facilities, which goes into maintaining the property.
• Salt Pond: (14 min) White sand beach along St. John’s South Shore with crystal clear waters that are calm as can be. Salt Pond Beach does require about a half-mile hike to reach and doesn’t have the most shade, but it is quite picturesque. It’s also a good idea to cover your feet out of the water to protect from sandspurs.

For more information about the beaches on St. John’s North Shore, read my guide to the best ones here.

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Stay in Coral Bay

If you wish to stay in this quiet section of St. John, you will not find many hotels. Rather, cottage, apartment, and villa rentals are the way to go. Here are a few suggestions I love:

• Villa Dal Mare: A stylish family-friendly stay on the Majestic Mile with romantic views over all of Coral Bay. This luxury villa’s location feels remote, yet is just a short five-minute drive from local shops and restaurants. Each of the three suites feature designer touches that owner & creator Lauren McBride (IG: @iamlaurenmcbride) thoughtfully makes available for purchase via QR codes. With a fully-stocked kitchen, awesome patio, pool, and outdoor games, everyone in your group will be happy!
• Estate Fortsberg: As another luxury option that can fit around eight people, the scenery from Estate Fortsberg simply cannot be beat. With 180-degree views from Hurricane Hole to Coral Harbor and hardly another villa in sight, you feel on top of the world. 

• A House of Open Arms Villa (or Cottage): Perfect for couples or small families, A House of Open Arms is the next best thing after Estate Fortsberg. Being off the same road, you still have that beautiful view of Coral Bay, but are just a bit lower on the hill. My husband and I stayed in the cottage, and loved how we could see the sea from our bed.
• Vista Bahia: Even higher in the hills, this petite villa allows you to see over Coral Bay out towards East End and beyond. This chic cottage is small, but feels very spacious. It’s perfect for two people, but the apartment below can also be rented for groups of four.

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Shop in Coral Bay

Even though Cruz Bay has way more shopping opportunities, there are a few boutiques in Coral Bay that are worth a visit:

• Mumbo Jumbo: Attached to Skinny Legs, this is the best clothing shop in Coral Bay. There are super cute tanks, t-shirts, rash guards, and even sweatshirts. Purchases from here actually make up a lot of my everyday wardrobe.
• Pirate’s Cove: The perfect stop for snorkel equipment, books about the island, and locally made jewelry.
• St. John VI Pottery: Pop in here to be mesmerized by gorgeous pottery hand-made right on the island. Find items similar to those sold at Anthropologie, only for lower prices and genuinely crafted by locals.

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Other Things to Note:

Will you be staying in Coral Bay on your next trip? Here is some practical information you’ll be glad to know before you go.

• Grocery Stores: Our go-to grocery store is Dolphin Market off route 107 in the Coccoloba shops. It’s definitely not a supermarket, as large superstores are practically nonexistent on St. John. Further down the road, there is also Calabash Market, if that is closer to where you are staying.
• Garbage Drop-off: If you are staying in a villa on St. John, garbage drop off will likely be part of your trip. Most villa rentals require you to transport your bags of trash in your car to drive them to the dumpsters on route 107, or risk being charged a cleaning fee.
• Emergencies: As with the mainland United States, dial 911 in case of emergency. There is a fire station right in Coral Bay, though you hopefully won’t need it.
• Gas Stations: Unfortunately, there are none in Coral Bay. That said, we almost never use a full tank during a week’s stay. Therefore, you should be fine just stopping in Cruz Bay for gas on your way back to dropping off your rental car.
• Water Conservation: Fresh water is a precious commodity on St. John that either must be purchased or captured in cisterns when it rains. Minimize running excessive water when showering or washing your hands. Also, many rentals will even request that you avoid “flushing for number one”.
• Animals: You will see donkeys and little goats along and in the middle of the road. Always drive with caution and do not feed the animals. It might seem harmless, but it’s not good for them. Plus, it makes those cute little creatures less fearful of moving vehicles, which can be hazardous for their safety.

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Now you are more than prepared for your stay in St. John’s Coral Bay. Appreciate it for what it is – the simpler side of the island where you can find tranquility among incredibly stunning scenery. Coral Bay represents everything visitors love about the island of St. John, and I guarantee you’ll see why by the time you leave.