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Curious about what’s on the quieter side of St. John, opposite from all the bars and commercialism of Cruz Bay? If you’ve visited this site before, you know that not only am I a huge fan of St John in the US Virgin Islands, but also that I am enamored with peaceful Coral Bay. This may be surprising, since Coral Bay is on the total opposite side of the island from the ferry dock, has less shopping available, and is slightly further from the beaches.
There is actually much to love about this side of the island, and I’m about to explain why. Yes, Coral Bay does lack some of the conveniences that Cruz Bay offers, but do not be afraid to stay here.
A lot of the vacation rentals are perched high up on hills with incredible views, making them the perfect retreat after a long beach day. Coral Bay also has much less noisy traffic than Cruz Bay, which adds to the relaxing atmosphere.
Even if you don’t choose to stay in Coral Bay, it is still worth a visit during your time in St. John. You might be reluctant, thinking that time spent in Coral Bay could not be worth sacrificing a visit to the North Shore or Cruz Bay. Those are great places, but if you want to peer into the heart and soul of St. John, then a stop in Coral Bay is an absolute must.
Everything You Need to Know About Coral Bay in St John
- Coral Bay History
- How to get to Coral Bay
- Restaurants in Coral Bay
- Things to do in Coral Bay
- Beaches Near Coral Bay
- Stay in Coral Bay
- Things to Know about Coral Bay
Brief History of Coral Bay:
Although Cruz Bay has St. John’s main harbor now, Coral Bay was actually the side of the island to first be settled by Europeans. The Dutch first came to Coral Bay from St. Thomas in 1718, and created their first settlement at Estate Carolina. These colonizers were attracted to Coral Bay’s natural harbor and the potential to set up cotton and sugar cane plantations.
Meanwhile, the British in nearby Tortola were keeping a close eye and did not like the presence of the Danes. However, they were never able to successfully overtake St. John and eventually gave up. By the end of the 1700’s, the Danish were running about 109 plantations all over the island, and enslaved individuals far outnumbered those who were free.
You can still find traces of this past in Coral Bay, like at the ruins of the old Danish fort on top of Fortsberg. In fact, it was at this site that the first revolutionaries signaled the beginning of a 1733 slave rebellion, where enslaved freedom-seekers subsequently held control of the island for six months. Additionally, you don’t have to go far from Coral Bay to find the plantation ruins at Annaberg, which sit near Francis and Leinster Bays.
A few years ago, I actually went to Copenhagen and was curious to see how the Danish described their colonial history with the Virgin Islands. I did find a tiny bit of information in the National Museum of Denmark. Otherwise, the only acknowledgement was during a canal cruise when the guide mentioned in reference to an old shipping warehouse, “We used to have three islands in the Caribbean”.
How to Get to Coral Bay in St John:
- Step 1: If you are not already in the U.S. Virgin Islands, you will first need to fly into neighboring St. Thomas (STT). I wrote in greater detail about getting to St. John in this post here.
- Step 2: Take the 15-minute ferry ride from Red Hook in St. Thomas to arrive in St. John’s Cruz Bay. The ferry leaves once per hour and costs $8.15 per person each way (with an additional $4.00 for each checked bag). While you can buy these tickets online in advance, it is not necessary to do so.
- Step 3: Driving a rental car is the easiest way to cross St. John from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay, although taxis are available too. There is also a bus that runs from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay, but it’s infrequent with limited coverage of the island. Route 10 is technically the quickest driving route, but North Shore Road passes the beaches, making it very scenic.
Travel Savvy Tip
If you are staying in Coral Bay, it’s easiest to move about with a rental car. Check you rental’s listing to see if you need a 4×4 to access it. We’ve had great experiences using St. John Car Rental and more recently, Mr. Piper’s Jeeps. Just don’t forget to drive on the left side of the road!
Restaurants in Coral Bay:
Although you’ll find less restaurants in Coral Bay than in Cruz Bay, there are still some beloved eateries to check out. Here is a listing of the best places to eat in Coral Bay and what I love about them (note: it’s not uncommon for some to only take cash or Venmo):
- Skinny Legs: This divey bar and grill is an island staple. Proudly serving up refreshing blender-free drinks, Skinny Legs’ specialty is delicious, juicy burgers that are a requirement on every St. John trip. Always finish your meal with their famous key lime pie.
- Rhumb Lines: With its Southeast Asian-inspired decor, Rhumb Lines offers an atmospheric patio, as well as covered seating for those rainy nights. The best dish on the menu is pad thai, which you must finish off with their addictive peanut butter chocolate pie (when available). Note – opening times have been haphazard here lately.
- Pizza Bar in Paradise: The delectable pies and calzones from this tiny restaurant are always in high demand. Here are my two tips for a successful experience: order takeout to avoid long waits at the restaurant and be sure to call early in the evening, as supplies often run out.
- Miss Lucy’s: Meet some locals on Thursdays for open mic nights (aka the only night when this restaurant is currently open). While there, make a wish for Miss Lucy’s to offer lunchtime hours again soon so we can all enjoy its enviable location on the Coral Bay waterfront.
- Johnny Lime: Stop into this BBQ joint in Coral Bay for a plate of smoked meats with comforting sides and refreshing cocktails. If you show up on Friday, ordering the weekly smoked lobster special is a must! Other fun nights include Monday’s Bingo, Tuesday’s open mic, and Saturday’s corn hole tournament.
- Lime Out: Lime Out is a floating taco bar in Coral Harbor that can only be reached by boat. The concept may seem a bit gimmicky, but the tacos are actually delicious and it’s fun to eat them on floating rafts. You can book your trip to Lime Out here! No boat? No worries! On slow afternoons (usually after 3pm), give Lime Out a call and see if they will deliver some tacos to you at the dock behind Skinny Legs. Oftentimes they will oblige!
- Ekaete Pink Corner: If you want local Caribbean fare like warmly spiced curry or roti in Coral Bay, the Pink Corner is your sole option. However, this one-woman operation is only open sporadically, which can make visiting a challenge.
- Surf Club Cantina: This laid back joint allows for water views while sipping a margarita and munching on house made chips and guac.
- Sharky’s By The Water: This is the newest addition to Coral Bay, replacing the popular, but sadly closed Salty Mongoose pizza joint. Come on a night with live music (check their Facebook page) to pop open a cold beer and order some comfort food like mac n’ cheese.
Also Read: The Best Restaurants in St. John USVI
10 Best Things to Do Near Coral Bay:
Coral Bay, albeit quiet and less populated than Cruz Bay, has plenty of things to do. Find historical ruins, hiking paths, and incredible views that are well loved by both locals and tourists alike.
1. Visit the Old Fort
Take a drive over to Fortsberg in Coral Bay. Heading east, you’ll make a right onto Fortsberg Road off of Route 10. Park somewhere along the bumpy driveway before it gives way to a rough hiking path.
Follow the path to the top, and you’ll eventually reach an old 18th century fort that dates back to when the Danish first colonized the island. Though there is no signage that explains the history of the fort, the earth under your feet is where the Akwamu Revolution began on November 23, 1733.
In the early morning, a small group of enslaved Africans snuck into the fort under the guise of delivering firewood. These men and women quickly overtook the Danish soldiers and immediately fired shots from the fort’s cannons. This signaled to the rest of the island’s enslaved population that the revolution had begun.
Note: This path is not very well-maintained, so you may be fighting some vegetation on the way up.
2. Look for Flamingos at the Salt Pond
Take a scenic drive along Coral Bay, all the way down to the Salt Pond. You might be wondering: what exactly could a large pool of brown foamy water have to offer?
Well, it used to just be the fact that it’s an important part of St. John’s ecosystem, not to mention the use of its mineral-rich mud for a DIY spa day. Additionally, the National Park Service will allow individuals to harvest a small amount of salt from the pond during times of high production.
However, that was before. Currently, one of the biggest reasons to go to the Salt Pond is for a flamingo sighting! While these birds are actually native to the Virgin Islands, they disappeared for an extended period do to hunting and development. However, they’ve been once again spotted near the Salt Pond on occasion since February 2023, with sightings continuing to be reported.
Upon reaching the Salt Pond parking lot, park in the small dirt lot. Then hike about a quarter-mile to the translucent waters of Salt Pond Beach and turn left. Keep hiking past the beach and follow the trail through the vegetation ahead until you reach a clearing of muddy-looking water.
3. See Wild Waves at Drunk Bay
From the salt pond, turn left and continue on your hike to Drunk Bay, as it’s only a short distance further. What you will see is a wilder, rockier side of St. John that faces out towards the open, unprotected waters of the Atlantic.
Unlike the gentle waves of the North Shore beaches, the waves on this windy bay collapse onto the shore with a bit more force. Do take note of the many coral rock formations (called jumbies) left by others, and leave your own contribution for future visitors to find.
Join a Guided Hiking and Snorkel Tour to Salt Pond & Drunk Bay Here!
4. Hike the Ram Head Trail
Since you’re already on a role, make a day of your time spent near Salt Pond Bay. The Ram Head Trail starts at the east end of Salt Pond Beach, near the Salt Pond. The trail follows a narrow, bumpy path, while providing stunning views of the sea against beautiful rocky cliffs along the way.
The trail out and back is about two miles long and offers very little shade. In addition, there are parts of the trail that pass very steep cliffs and low-lying cacti, so mind your footing and take selfies with care. You’ll want a hat, sunscreen, and water bottle to protect yourself from the sun and heat.
Once you make it to the top of the ram head, you’ll be greeted with miles and miles of the shimmering Caribbean Sea, as well as an incredible view of St. John’s South Shore behind you. However, it would be remiss to head back before acknowledging a plaque the National Park recently installed at the peak of Ram Head in March of 2024. The plaque honors the 11 individuals who took their lives near this exact spot on May 4th, 1734 rather than return to a life of bondage.
5. Visit the animals at the Carolina Corral
I gave a thorough overview of the Carolina Corral in my comprehensive Things to Do in St. John post, so I won’t repeat myself too much here. Basically, if horseback riding along the beach or visiting adopted animals is calling your name, a stop at the Carolina Corral is for you.
6. Kayak in Hurricane Hole
Over many years of taking in the magnificent views of Hurricane Hole from Fortsberg, I badly wanted to paddle those gentle turquoise bays. A few years ago, this wish came true when we rented kayaks from Reef2Peak (rent your single or tandem kayaks here).
It was one of the best experiences we have had on the island and offered the unique perspective of seeing Coral Bay from the water. Our kayaks allowed us to explore more bays than we’ve ever had access to, and we were even able to stop at a deserted rock beach for lunch. I highly recommend this experience as a full or half day excursion.
Join a Guided Kayak Tour of Hurricane Hole Here!
7. Watch the sunrise over Coral Bay
Coral Bay faces east and therefore is the optimal side of the island for watching the sunrise. There’s nothing like the peace and solitude of this glorious sight over the sweeping expanse of the Caribbean.
Tip – you’ll get an even better sunrise view if you can get yourself out of bed early enough to make it to Ram Head. I know – it’s a tall ask on vacation and one that even I haven’t completed yet!
8. Visit the Annaberg Ruins
While not in Coral Bay, these ruins of an old Danish sugar plantation are not very far away and are definitely worth a visit. In fact, you could technically hike to them from Coral Bay via the Johnny Horn Trail (it’s a toughie though).
There are so few structures left fully intact from the 18th and 19th century colonization of St. John, so an educational visit to the former Annaberg Plantation is definitely worth your time.
Between November and June, try to arrive between 10am and 2pm to enjoy a cultural program. These short presentations cover local St. John traditions like bread making, agriculture, and other cultural topics.
9. View the Emmaus Moravian Church
This purple, pale yellow, and green church on Centerline Road dates back to 1782, although it has been rebuilt twice over its lifetime due to a 1793 hurricane and then an 1892 fire. The adjacent mission house has sustained far less damage over time, and also dates back to the 18th century.
Moravian missionaries began coming to the Danish West Indies in 1732, first arriving on St. Thomas. Being the only church that could preach to the enslaved population, these protestant ministers required their congregation to read scripture to properly learn about Christianity.
Therefore, these missionaries translated the bible into Dutch Creole, which was subsequently taught to the enslaved congregation. The Moravians would later provide free and compulsory education for slave children during the 19th century. One of these schools was even located at this Emmaus location.
Unfortunately, the current structure once again sits awaiting restoration after being hit by yet another hurricane (Irma in 2017). However, it’s still worth checking out the exterior, since the building represents significant Virgin Islands history.
You’ll find the church perched on a hill to your left heading east in Coral Bay, just past the right turn onto Route 107, but before passing Rhumb Lines.
10. Hike to Waterlemon Bay
If you crave a morning getting lost in the hills of St. John, hike the Johnny Horn Trail to the north side of the island, near Annaberg. Start at the Emmaus Moravian Church on Centerline Road and hike about 1.8 miles to Waterlemon Bay. Along the way, stop at the Windy Hill Greathouse Ruins for one of the best views on the island out to Waterlemon Cay.
Expect a good workout, as you’ll encounter a 400 foot elevation gain on the way up and the total roundtrip distance is almost 4 miles (depending on how far down the beach you walk). Wear sturdy shoes, since the trail is pebbly in sections and can be slippery.
Also Read: The Best Things to do in St. John USVI
Closest St John Beaches to Coral Bay:
While there really aren’t great swimming beaches in Coral Bay, you need not go far to find some. Coral Bay is about a 10-15 minute drive from St. John’s gorgeous North Shore, as well as some other nearby choices if you want to mix it up. Here are the closest beaches to Coral Bay that are worth visiting:
- Maho Bay: (10 min) One of the gentlest beaches on St. John. Come here to rent a stand-up paddle board or snorkel equipment from Reef2Peak and find some sea turtles. Maho Crossroads across the street is also a very popular lunch spot.
- Francis Bay: (11 min) Considered to be the “new Maho” since the hurricanes, although it gets much more blasted by sun. Still, Francis Bay has the gentle waters of Maho without the commercialism that Maho Crossroads brought, which killed the original vibe.
- Cinnamon Bay: (11 min) Cinnamon is a nice long beach with powdery white sand. Adding to the already beautiful scenery are the hilltop mansions of Peter Bay to the west. The Cinnamon Bay Campground offers snorkel, kayak, and paddle board rentals here too.
- Hansen Bay: (12 min) This lesser-visited beach is also a great place to do some kayaking, paddle boarding, or snorkeling. While there is not ample shade on this beach, there is ample parking and the water is beautiful. Note that the property owners do request a donation to use the facilities, which goes into maintaining the property.
- Salt Pond: (14 min) White sand beach along St. John’s South Shore with crystal clear waters that are calm as can be. Salt Pond Beach does require about a half-mile hike to reach and doesn’t have the most shade, but it is quite picturesque. It’s also a good idea to cover your feet out of the water to protect from sandspurs.
For more information about the beaches on St. John’s North Shore, read my guide to the best ones here.
Stay in Coral Bay
If you wish to stay in this quiet section of St. John, you will not find many hotels. Rather, cottage, apartment, and villa rentals are the way to go. Here are a few suggestions I love:
- Villa Dal Mare: A stylish family-friendly stay on the Majestic Mile with romantic views over all of Coral Bay. This luxury villa’s location feels remote, yet is just a short five-minute drive from local shops and restaurants. Each of the three suites feature designer touches that owner & creator Lauren McBride (IG: @iamlaurenmcbride) thoughtfully makes available for purchase via QR codes. With a fully-stocked kitchen, awesome patio, pool, and outdoor games, everyone in your group will be happy!
- Estate Fortsberg: As another luxury option that can fit around eight people, the scenery from Estate Fortsberg simply cannot be beat. With 180-degree views from Hurricane Hole to Coral Harbor and hardly another villa in sight, you feel on top of the world.
- A House of Open Arms Villa (or Cottage): Perfect for couples or small families, A House of Open Arms is the next best thing after Estate Fortsberg. Being off the same road, you still have that beautiful view of Coral Bay, but are just a bit lower on the hill. My husband and I stayed in the cottage, and loved how we could see the sea from our bed.
- Vista Bahia: Even higher in the hills, this petite villa allows you to see over Coral Bay out towards East End and beyond. This chic cottage is small, but feels very spacious. It’s perfect for two people, but the apartment below can also be rented for groups of four.
Shop in Coral Bay
Even though Cruz Bay has way more shopping opportunities, there are a few boutiques in Coral Bay that are worth a visit:
- Mumbo Jumbo: Attached to Skinny Legs, this is the best clothing shop in Coral Bay. There are super cute tanks, t-shirts, rash guards, and even sweatshirts. Purchases from here actually make up a lot of my everyday wardrobe.
- Pirate’s Cove: The perfect stop for snorkel equipment, books about the island, and locally made jewelry.
- St. John VI Pottery: Pop in here to be mesmerized by gorgeous pottery hand-made right on the island. Find items similar to those sold at Anthropologie, only for lower prices and genuinely crafted by locals.
Other Things to Note:
Will you be staying in Coral Bay on your next trip? Here is some practical information you’ll be glad to know before you go.
- Grocery Stores: Our go-to grocery store is Dolphin Market off route 107 in the Coccoloba shops. It’s definitely not a supermarket, as large superstores are practically nonexistent on St. John. Further down the road, there is also Calabash Market, if that is closer to where you are staying.
- Garbage Drop-off: If you are staying in a villa on St. John, garbage drop off will likely be part of your trip. Most villa rentals require you to transport your bags of trash in your car to drive them to the dumpsters on route 107, or risk being charged a cleaning fee.
- Emergencies: As with the mainland United States, dial 911 in case of emergency. There is a fire station right in Coral Bay, though you hopefully won’t need it.
- Gas Stations: Unfortunately, there are none in Coral Bay. That said, we almost never use a full tank during a week’s stay. Therefore, you should be fine just stopping in Cruz Bay for gas on your way back to dropping off your rental car.
- Water Conservation: Fresh water is a precious commodity on St. John that either must be purchased or captured in cisterns when it rains. Minimize running excessive water when showering or washing your hands. Also, many rentals will even request that you avoid “flushing for number one”.
- Animals: You will see donkeys and little goats along and in the middle of the road. Always drive with caution and do not feed the animals. It might seem harmless, but it’s not good for them. Plus, it makes those cute little creatures less fearful of moving vehicles, which can be hazardous for their safety.
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Now you are more than prepared for your stay in St. John’s Coral Bay. Appreciate it for what it is – the simpler side of the island where you can find tranquility among incredibly stunning scenery. Coral Bay represents everything visitors love about the island of St. John, and I guarantee you’ll see why by the time you leave.
Thank you for this informative post. We have always stayed near Cruz Bay but we are rethinking and may stay here for our next visit.
Of course! We have done trips where we split our time, first in Coral Bay, then in Cruz Bay. I am always very sad when we have to leave Coral Bay, if that tells you anything 🙂
thank you for this amazing post! I’m also thinking about splitting my time between cruz and coral but this helped a ton.
Your welcome and thank you! Both sides of the island definitely offer their perks, but I’ve always loved Coral Bay 🙂
Thanks for all your insight on St. John. My husband and I just booked our first trip to the island for the last week in April. We chose The House of Open Arms for our stay based on your recommendation and her awesome reviews. We are so excited and I can’t wait to read all your blogs and make my plan for which beaches, restaurants and day trips to visit!!
Your welcome! That is such a great stay, and it’s truly a treat to wake up to those views every morning. Happy trip planning, and I’m happy to help if more questions come up!
Is June a good time to travel to St John?
Yes, June is absolutely a good time. The high season crowds should be slowing down, but hurricane season will not have started yet. The only downside is that this time of year tends to be pretty hot, but that’s what the beach is for!
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for the inspiring write up! We are thinking about staying at Concordia Eco Resort on that side of the island. Do you know if it’s possible to walk from there to the Coral Bay area? Or is there too much traffic on that stretch of road to add foot traffic into the mix? I was hoping we could walk along the shore into town but can’t seem to tell if that’s passable.
Thank you!
Hi Claire,
Unfortunately, St. John isn’t the most walkable island and Concordia is deceitfully far from the offerings of Coral Bay (a half hour walk from Miss Lucy’s alone). It does appear the gorgeous Salt Pond Beach area would be walkable, but otherwise there is virtually no shoulder on most of the roads and sidewalks hardly exist either, making the walking situation overall quite sketchy. Also, keep in mind that St. John roads are hilly and can be especially tiresome for long walks in the Caribbean heat.
Hope that helps!
Theresa