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Heading to France and looking for the perfect storybook village in the Bordeaux region? Then a visit to Saint-Émilion will make you feel as though you’ve stepped right into a postcard. This Saint-Émilion day trip guide will ensure you discover every bit of charm lurking down the winding cobblestone paths of this medieval, wine-soaked village.
I traveled to Saint-Émilion with my husband and our two friends, staying just fifteen minutes away in Libourne. I found that when visiting France’s Bordeaux region for wine-tasting, the area is quite sprawling and there are many towns that could make a good home base for day-tripping.
Saint-Émilion itself is quite compact, so you can easily cover this town in one day of exploring. Of course, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is also a renowned French wine region, so a visit to a local winery is a must! This guide will make sure you see the best of Saint-Émilion in a very doable day trip, whether road tripping or joining a group tour.
A Delightful Day Trip in Saint-Émilion, France
8:00 AM – Breakfast at a Local Café
No matter where you are in France, there is no better way to begin a day than by visiting a local café. My typical go-to is a pain au chocolat and a double espresso, though I sometimes switch it up to a cappuccino.
We stayed at this Airbnb right in the center of Libourne and walked to Boulangerie Banette in Place Abel Surchamp several times. If you prefer to eat pastries in Saint-Émilion, stop into Boulangerie Premier on the outskirts of town.
9:00 AM – Explore the Village of Saint-Émilion
The best thing to do in Saint-Émilion is to simply wander this medieval tangle of streets to discover so much history and beauty. Of course, there are several sites to notice and stop into along the way, which I’ve mapped here and listed below.
If you want to really dive into the history and understand what you’re looking at, it’s best to take a local walking tour. This one lasts one hour and costs €13 for adults.
1. Medieval Ruins
When parking outside the town, the first place we encountered was Les Grandes Murailles. It’s basically one free-standing medieval wall that was once part of a 13th century Dominican monastery.
During the 100 Years War that lasted from 1337 to 1453, the Dominican monks retreated into the walls of Saint Émilion for safety, as French soldiers turned the convent into their headquarters and watch tower. The structure was destroyed around this time and this section of the wall is all that remains.
Next, stop at the Romanesque remains of the Cardinal Palace before entering the village. This facade built into the exterior of the city wall was once a 12th century “palace” for the Archbishop of Bordeaux’s (who became Pope Clement V) nephew, Gaillard de la Mothe (aka the Cardinal of Sainte Luce).
2. Collegial Catholic Church
The Collegiate Church of Saint-Émilion was founded as a monastery in the early 12th century with purpose. A college of Canons was sent from the Archbishop of Bordeaux to bolster religious practices and the strength of the church within the village.
The church was built at an imposing size as a show of dominance. Taxes were collected from village residents, with the wealthy being awarded premier gravesites within the monastery.
From what I recall, we did not pay to enter this church or the cloister (though you may see a donation box). Don’t forget to check out the cloister, once the heart of the monastery, where you will find 38.5-meter mural painted by François Peltier in 2018 called The Apocalypse of Saint-Émilion, according to St John.
3. Place du Marché
This is the site of the historic Saint-Émilion market that dates back to the Middle Ages. Today, Place du Marché contains shady restaurant terraces, shops, and galleries. We took home a small picture of Saint-Émilion colored in pastels that the shopkeeper said his wife had painted.
It’s definitely worth a stroll for anyone who visits, but I personally preferred viewing the market square from above at this viewpoint.
4. Porte de la Cadène
The striking Porte de la Cadène is a medieval archway you’ll likely pass when strolling from the upper part of Saint-Émilion downhill to the market. It is connected to Maison de la Cadène, which is the oldest half-timbered house in the village with a facade dating to the 16th century. The foundations are even older.
The gateway and house are likely named for a 13th century resident named Guillaume Renaud de la Cadène. Historically, in different eras the village’s religious population lived in the upper part of town, while the secular portion was in the lower town. It’s possible the arch once served to separate the two sections, maybe even having a chain or door at some point.
5. Eat a Canelé
A canelé is a pastry that originated in Bordeaux (cannelé Bordelaise), and indeed I had never seen one until I reached Saint-Émilion. These custard pastries are baked in fluted copper tins. History suggests they were likely born in convents around Bordeaux and elsewhere in the South of France between the 15th and 18th centuries.
The recipe is so important to the history and heritage of the region that the pasty chefs who make it are sworn to secrecy (the recipe is literally kept in a vault). Colors of the pastry range from a burnt orange color to almost black. You can taste this treat in Saint-Émilion at Canelés Baillardran or at Macarons de Saint-Émilion – Nadia Fermigier.
6. Cloître des Cordeliers
Cordeliers refers to the Franciscan monks who wore cord rope around their robes. Like the Dominicans discussed earlier, the Franciscans had also arrived to Saint-Émilion by the 13th century. Having also lost their monastery during the 100 Years War, they finally built a new one in the late 14th century.
The monks left this site following the French Revolution, but much of it is still intact today. Visitors can tour what remains of the monastery from April to October, including the church, cloister, and sparkling wine cellars. There is also a bar at the cloister that features the site’s sparkling wines and other varieties from Saint-Émilion and greater Bordeaux.
The cloister garden is free to visit every weekend and during Christmas, although the bar closes seasonally.
7. The Brunet Gate
The gorgeous Brunet gate is the last remaining of its kind from a series of fortifications commissioned under the English crown during the 12th century. It provided entry to the village from the eastern countryside and was connected to ramparts that stretched 1.5 kilometers around the city.
These structures displayed the village’s strength and the gates produced income by collecting taxes from anyone entering. At one point, the archway had wooden doors (evidence of the hinges still exists). Unfortunately, the Brunet gate is one of few remains left from destruction after the 16th century Wars of Religion and 19th century development.
8. The Ursuline Convent
From 1620 until 1792, this site was home to a convent run by the Ursuline nuns. Local lore has it that the sisters made early macarons here, later bringing the recipe into the city after the French Revolution. This primitive, though still highly technical, macaron would have been prepared as a single cookie without color or filling.
Today a vineyard surrounds the ruins of the decaying structure.
10:30am: Tour the Monolithic Church
The monolithic church was carved into underground limestone during the 12th century over the grave of the town’s patron saint, Émilion. Despite damage done during the 16th century and the French Revolution, the church has benefitted from 20th century restorations.
Today, it continues to hold religious ceremonies, concerts, and inductions into Saint-Émilion’s brotherhood of wine: the Jurade. The church is open daily for touring in French only, although it’s the only way that visitors can see the hermitage of Émilion, the Chapel of the Trinity and its medieval paintings, the catacombs, and the Monolithic church itself. Tickets cost €15 for adults and can be purchased online here.
The church’s tower, built between the 12th and 15th centuries, is the highest point in the city and offers sweeping views. Those touring the church who wish to climb must pay an additional €2 each.
12:00 PM – Have Lunch
There are plenty of restaurants around Saint-Émilion to pop into for lunch. For something quick and easy that didn’t sacrifice quality, we opted for freshly-made sandwiches at Sandwich Maison. We ate them leaning over one of the town’s stone walls, looking over the rooftops below.
Another unique option is the “picnic baskets” offered year-round at Cloître des Cordeliers.
1:00 PM: Climb The King’s Tower
While making your approach to the King’s Tower, be sure to first stop at this nearby panoramic viewpoint for a photo.
Next, it’s time to visit La Tour du Roy, or the King’s Keep, where you can climb 118 steps to the top for amazing views over Saint-Émilion. This 13th-century Romanesque fortification stands 32 meters high (105 ft) from top to bottom and consists of three levels. The site is open on weekends from February 10th 1:45pm to 5pm with entry costing €2 for ages 6+.
Afterwards, continue one minute downhill to the Fountain of the King to discover where 19th century wash women once rinsed their linens.
2:00 PM – Visit Local Wineries
It is essential to do at least one wine tasting during any Saint-Émilion day trip. Since we had a car, we drove to Chateau Cantenac, which was eight minutes outside the medieval core by car.
Don’t want to drive? No worries, as there are several wineries in close vicinity to the historic center. For example, you could stop at Château Saint Georges – Côte Pavie (last tour at 4:30pm) on your way back to the Saint-Émilion train station. You could also book tours at the following individual wineries without hardly leaving the village:
Want the ultimate scenic wine tasting experience? Take this e-bike tour to ride past rolling vineyards to three different wineries.
5:00 PM – Depart or Stay for Dinner in Saint-Émilion
This Saint-Émilion day trip is coming to a close. It’s time to head back to your hotel or Airbnb and prepare for a nice relaxing dinner out.
Want to dine somewhere with a Michelin star? There is no need to leave Saint-Émilion, as you could simply visit Logis de la Cadène, which was founded in 1848 and is one of the oldest restaurants in the village. Reservations can be made online here.
Getting to Saint-Émilion as a Day Trip from Bordeaux
While we loved our Libourne Airbnb, I recognize that many people will still choose to stay in Bordeaux. After all, the town has a lot to offer, especially as far as hotels and public transportation.
If you are coming to Saint-Émilion from Bordeaux, you have a couple main transportation options:
- Driving: Offers the most flexibility. Distance is about 45 miles and takes around one hour depending on traffic. Note that driving in Bordeaux during rush hour is a nightmare. We learned this the hard way when trying to catch a morning train from Bordeaux to Paris, which we sadly missed.
- Train: Bordeaux is easily connected to Saint-Émilion via a 30-minute TER train ride. The route is direct with three stops and tickets do not need to be purchased in advance. While the Bordeaux Saint-Jean station is right downtown, the Saint-Émilion station is about a mile outside the town center. You could walk or consider ordering an Uber.
Guided Tours from Bordeaux to Saint-Émilion
Let someone else handle the transportation for the day, as there are numerous tour options available from Bordeaux:
- Overall Best Tour: This Saint-Émilion day trip experience combines sightseeing and wine tasting for the best of everything.
- Best Half-Day Tour: See Saint-Émilion and do one wine tasting on this half-day tour.
- Best Wine-Tasting Tour: This full-day wine tasting tour allows you to sample wines from the Bordeaux appellations of Saint-Émilion & Margaux
- Best Half-Day Wine Tasting Tour: Only have time to taste wine in Saint-Émilion? This half-day wine tasting tour has you visiting two estates in the region.
- Best Electric Bike Tour: Feel the air of the Saint-Émilion countryside by biking between two wineries and the nearby village on this electric bike tour.
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In conclusion, Saint-Émilion makes a dreamy day trip destination for any visitor to France’s Bordeaux region. From wandering the village’s adorable cobblestone lanes to drinking delicious red wines, you’re bound to have a joyful day frolickingly around southwestern France.