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Bari, the capital of Italy’s Puglia region, is not on most people’s radar, especially if you live outside of Europe. However, this southern Italian town is a hidden gem that offers access to unique cuisine, intriguing local history, and plenty of character. If you want something different from the typical Italy trip, a stay in Old Town Bari is the perfect place to start.
While beauty and historical sights are my usual draw, I visited Bari primarily to eat octopus. I first glimpsed this Puglian specialty while watching an episode of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods. As octopus is one of my favorite seafood dishes, I knew I had to visit Puglia sooner rather than later.
My husband, Aaron, and I finally booked five days in the region, combining it with a stay in the Greek islands. We left wishing we had more time to enjoy Bari’s local, low-key feel and access to locally-sourced, delicious food. If a stay in Bari is calling your name as well, below is my comprehensive guide to exploring the city’s charming Old Town.
The Ultimate Guide to Old Town Bari
Bari Background
A port city on the sapphire blue Adriatic Sea, Bari is the capital of the Puglia region. Records from 180 BC indicate that it was an important harbor city under Roman rule, when the city was called Barium. Although today you are likely to see ferries and cruise ships at port, in ancient times this would have been a center of fishing and trade.
After the Roman times, the city changed hands over the centuries between the Byzantines, Normans, and various other rulers. In 1558, Bari became part of the Kingdom of Naples and later part of Italy in 1860.
Today, the city is divided into the Old Town (Barivecchia), with its tangle of narrow streets, and the new section (Murat), which is more modern with a planned grid. This article focuses on Old Town Bari, which is mildly gritty with a unique local spirit.
What to do in Bari
1. Wander the Maze of Streets
Once plagued with petty crime, today Old Town Bari is transformed with a renewed focus on historical preservation and tourism. As one local noted, “Now you can walk around wearing three Rolex watches and be fine” (though I don’t recommend doing this anywhere).
While wandering, look for respite in the beautiful piazzas (or squares) to find eateries or simply a place to sit. One example is Piazza del Mercantile, which is full of life in the evenings and home to the 16th century “column of justice”. This is where criminals were once tied for public shaming and assault.
2. Walk on the Wall
The Bari city walls, or muraglia, date back to the 4th century BC, although today’s walls reflect a 12th century construction. Built for the city’s defense, at one point they extended 1.2 kilometers and wrapped around the entire city.
The walls were restored in the 19th century, but now only extend about 400m. Today, you can climb a staircase to stroll along the wall and take in gorgeous views of Bari’s waterfront and the Adriatic Sea. When entering the Old Town by Basilica San Nicola, turn left and you will encounter a staircase on your left tucked into the city walls.
3. Stumble Upon Medieval Church Ruins
You can find the open-air ruins of Santa Maria del Buonconsiglio in the site’s namesake square within the oldest part of Bari. A curiosity, they sit lonely and mysteriously available to the average onlooker to wander and touch without much description as to what they are.
During later research, I discovered that the ruins encompassing Roman columns and mosaic tiles once belonged to a medieval church. The actual construction dates vary and happened in phases, with some elements being added as “late” as the 11th and 12th centuries.
The church went to ruin and was mostly demolished in the 1930’s. Sadly, the ruins’ easy accessibility means they lie unprotected, and are often subject to vandals and litter.
4. Visit Castello Svevo
Castello Svevo, or Swabian Castle, was built by Roger II of Sicily around 1131, but was subsequently destroyed during a siege of the city in 1156. Frederick II of Hohenstaufen rebuilt the castle between 1233 and 1240.
During the 16th century, Isabella and Bona Sforza of Aragon added defensive reinforcements around the castle, including a curtain wall and bastions. Not sacrificing style for substance, they also decorated the interior to match their renaissance tastes.
After that era, the castle was largely abandoned, save for being used as a prison and later, barracks. Today the castle houses a museum, which you can visit for 6 euros.
5. Admire the Arches
A surprising element of Bari’s stone architecture you’ll encounter are the charming archways. While you are bound to pass through a few while simply walking around, here are a couple hidden ones to look out for:
- Arco del Carmine: book a romantic dinner under this arch at Osteria Le Arpie
- Arco dei Meravigli (“Wonder Arch”): Local legend says the arch was built in one night to facilitate the passage of two lovers. In reality, the arch connected homes belonging to the Meravigli family during the 16th century.
6. Visit Bari Cathedral
Bari Cathedral, or the Cathedral of San Sabinus (San Sabino), is the most significant church in Bari. Construction originated in the 11th century for a Byzantine cathedral. When it was destroyed in 1156, a Romanesque cathedral was rebuilt upon the original ruins between 1170 and 1178. The church was consecrated on October 4, 1292.
From the outside, visitors can appreciate the cathedral’s Romanesque façade and rose window. Head inside to see sections of the original structure’s pavement, as well as visit the crypt, which houses the relics of Saint Sabinus.
Additionally, forgotten ancient structures lay beneath the cathedral at the Museo del Succorpo. Pay the 3 euro entry fee to see extensive ruins of an excavated ancient Christian basilica, an intricate mosaic floor, part of a Roman road, and more.
7. Check out the Basilica di San Nicola
Although Bari Cathedral is the most important church in the city, the Basilica di San Nicola overshadows it in fame. The church first began in 1087 to receive the remains and relics of St. Nicholas (yes, the Christmas one). They had just been stolen from Myra in present-day Turkey after the city fell to anti-Christian rulers.
The crypt was built first, but the simple Norman church facade we see today was not finished until the 12th century. Today, the site still draws Catholic and Orthodox Christian pilgrims who come to worship and receive the Saint’s “manna”, or water that forms around St. Nicolas’s bones each year. The manna is mixed with holy water and used for “protection and health in mind and body”.
8. Do a Walking Tour
Old Town Bari feels very much like a maze with its chaotic network of streets and pathways. It can be hard to know where you are or what you are looking at. Doing a walking tour will help you understand the significance of Old Town Bari and its place in history.
At the very least, I recommend doing a food tour! The food tour Aaron and I did ensured we tried all of the specialties of Bari and Puglia as a whole. The tour provided so much food that I couldn’t eat for hours and took a three hour nap afterwards. You will definitely get your money’s worth, while also learning some light history about Bari!
9. Stroll Along the Sea
One of the best perks of Bari is its location right on the Adriatic Sea. There is a walkway along the water right outside Old Town Bari that is incredibly pleasant to stroll in the evening around sunset. It also happens to be a very popular gathering spot for locals on the weekend.
In the morning, a stroll on this waterfront path might lead you past fisherman catching fresh octopus. On a calm day, you might even see some confident locals doing laps in the water close to shore.
10. Go to the Beach
If you are craving easy beach access during your stay in Bari, check out Pane e Pomodoro (literally bread and tomato) beach just kilometers outside the Old Town. This popular local beach offers a grassy picnic area, golden sand, a seasonal beach bar, and restroom/shower facilities. However, you will need to bring your own chairs and umbrellas.
The beach is reachable from Old Town Bari in about 40 minutes on foot or 10 minutes driving, and parking is available for 1 euro/day. Although this beach is convenient to Bari, it is not the cleanest or most pristine in Puglia. If you rented a car, there are plenty more beaches along the Adriatic coast to check out.
11. Explore the Museum of Archeology
Journey through Pulgia’s settlement and development through the ages, beginning with the Neolithic era through modern day. Located in the northernmost tip of Old Town Bari, visitors to the Museo Archeologico di Santa Scolastica can view ancient artifacts and walk through various ruins. Highlights include a monastery, defensive bastion, and settlement ruins dating back to Protohistory (the time immediately before written records).
12. Eat the Local Specialties
With so much delicious local food, you will not go hungry during your stay in Bari. After all, what drew me to Bari was fresh octopus, and you can even see fisherman tenderizing their fresh catches along the Adriatic. Another local favorite is focaccia, traditionally dough with a crispy bottom topped with tomatos and herbs, and consumed virtually any time of day.
Finally, you will see orecchiette pasta on most menus, as well as for sale in various colors at shops and stands all over Bari. Oh, and what’s better with pasta than Italian wine? Definitely try primitivo at least once during your stay, which is made with grapes grown either in Gioia delle Colle or Manduria.
Restaurants in Old Town Bari
While this is by no means an exhaustive list, here are some enticing eateries you must try while in Bari:
- Antico Caffe del Carmine: Cafe bustling with activity and bumping dance music that’ll wake you up along with your espresso. We got our cappuccinos and cornettos here each day.
- Black and White: Sitting on the edge of Piazza del Mercantile, this restaurant is the perfect choice for an elegant date. You’ll find modern Puglian fare on the menu, with plenty of wines from the region to choose from. Reservations recommended.
- La Tana del Polpo: If you like octopus as much as I do, then this is the place for you! The seafood platter is where it’s at, consumed of course under a giant octopus decoration. Reservations highly recommended.
- Panificio Fiore: A local institution for fresh, perfectly crisp focaccia that often draws a long line out the door.
- Antica Gelateria Gentile: The smooth, creamy gelato flavors made here will cure any sweet tooth. Be sure to order it topped with fresh whipped cream.
- Mastro Ciccio: Located just outside Bari’s Old Town, this casual eatery offers an array of sandwiches, but the octopus-filled one is the star. Another unique menu item is the panzerotto, which is fried dough filled with ingredients like traditional mozzarella and tomato.
Day Trips Near Bari
Polignano a Mare
Medieval seaside town about 40 kilometers southeast of Bari that boasts the photogenic Lama Monachile beach. Don’t forget to stop at Focacce Memorabili for an array of different focacce (focaccias in Italian).
Matera
Visit the Sassi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site consisting of intricate cave homes dating back to prehistoric times.
Gioia del Colle
If you are looking to taste local wine of Puglia, Gioia del Colle is a great place to start. Specializing in Primitivo, stop into Polvanera Winery for an enlightening tasting to see how grapes grown in rock verses clay produce very different flavor notes (our favorite red was the Polvanera 17).
Alberobello
UNESCO site famous for its trulli, or homes built employing a unique mortar-less type of construction that dates back thousands of years. The resulting streets of little white-washed homes with conical-shaped roofs looks like something out of a fairy tale.
Suggested Stay in Old Town Bari
To fully immerse yourself in the charm of Bari’s Old Town, book a few nights at Octopus House. This chic, cave-like flat sits right above a darling square featuring an excellent cheese and meat shop and a chill beer bar. The flat’s giant windows look out onto the square below, and the best sights and restaurants of Old Town are within a five-minute walk.
Parking Near Bari’s Old Town
Parking in Bari might seem impossible at first, but it’s really just a practice in patience. First of all, it is virtually impossible to park within Bari’s Old Town, since it’s mostly blocked off to cars. There is street parking all along the outskirts of town, but it can be very difficult to find a spot.
My husband and I ended up finding this nearby lot, which only charged to park during business hours. Therefore, if you left in time for day tripping and stayed out all day, you could largely avoid paying at all. Plus, sitting right on the Adriatic, this lot actually had a lovely view out to the sea. We embraced the opportunity to walk along the water back to Old Town Bari in the evenings.
Getting to Bari
- Air: Bari has its own airport, called Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport. It is possible to get a direct flight into Bari from Rome, as well as other Italian and European cities.
- Train: More time consuming, but less expensive than flying, it’s also possible to connect to Bari by train. Tickets to Bari Centrale can be booked on the Trenitalia website. Keep in mind that delays and cancellations due to strikes are common.
- Ferry: There are several ferry routes to Bari from other countries and cities, such as Croatia, Greece, and Albania. Head to Ferryhopper to check prices and times, as well as book tickets.
- Vehicle: Driving in Bari is not for the lighthearted. While doable, be prepared for lots of lawlessness, ie. running red lights, ignoring lanes, cutting you off, etc. Also, watch out for pedestrians crossing the street at the last minute! We rented our sedan from Avis at the airport.
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Now you are all set to see the best that Old Town Bari has to offer. To me, it is such an underrated foodie destination, and there is plenty to explore even beyond the culinary scene. After experiencing Bari, chances are you’ll be yearning to come back for even more adventures in Puglia.
