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Would you like to explore part of Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coastal Route, but only have 36 hours to do so? Then you definitely won’t be disappointed by focusing your time on the Antrim Coast, which features some of the most famous sights in Northern Ireland.
Originally, my husband and I were supposed to visit Ireland for seven days, which sadly only left time for the Republic of Ireland. However, when the pandemic forced us to reschedule our trip, we made sure to add some extra days to our itinerary. Below, I am going through exactly what we did over 36 hours exploring in and around the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland.
36 Hours Exploring the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland
To be in easy striking distance of sights along the Antrim Coast, I recommend basing yourself in the city of Portrush. Your distance to Portrush will depend on whether you are coming from the eastern or western side of the island.
For my husband and I, our last overnight stop before driving up to Northern Ireland was Galway, which meant almost five hours of driving. If you are driving up from Dublin, you’ll have about a three-hour drive.
Along the way, we only made one stop in Donegal, where we grabbed lunch and explored Donegal Castle. Finally, we made an incredibly uneventful border crossing into Northern Ireland and beelined straight to the Giant’s Causeway.
Note: Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom, and uses the British pound as its currency.
First Evening on the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland
4pm-6pm: Giant’s Causeway Blue Trail
Our first evening, we parked in the lot of The Causeway Hotel (we didn’t know it was private) next to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre, and set off to look for the trailheads.
We embarked on the Blue Trail, which is just under a mile long. This led us down a paved path towards the sea to a world of 40,000 polygon-shaped stone columns. If viewed from above, one might think they were large pieces of black chalk sticking out of a box at different heights.
The rocks are actually black basalt columns that were formed long ago by rapidly cooling lava. They were gorgeous to explore as golden hour approached, as the light would illuminate something different every couple minutes.
6pm-7pm: Check into Lodging
Cozy cottages were the theme of our Ireland trip, and Portrush was no exception. We found a chicly decorated cabin, which was situated in a small caravan park. Portrush is a popular vacation destination, so you will see clusters of holiday homes everywhere.
7pm-9pm: Grab Dinner in Portrush
Portrush is a darling little Victorian town that seems stuck in time. Its glory days were long ago, but today there are still plenty of fun restaurants and bars to enjoy.
Aaron and I were feeling casual fare for our first night, so Kiwi’s Brew Bar provided the loaded fries and burgers we needed.
9pm: Rest up for the next day’s adventures
We aren’t late night people, so we headed back to our cabin early to get some rest before our big day of adventures. Of course, we watched an episode of Bridgerton before bed, as the new season had just come out days earlier.
Full Day Exploring the Antrim Coast
The next morning, I woke up around 8:00am to the sun shining through the blinds and onto my face. I checked the weather forecast and contained my excitement at the sun, knowing gray rain clouds would be swooping in at any moment.
Sure enough, this happened around 9:30am, and Aaron and I had a slow morning as a result. It didn’t help our motivation knowing both the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and Bushmills Distillery were closed for our stay. However, around 11am we decided to head out and do what we could in the wet conditions.
12pm-1pm: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
We started our morning with the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, which looks dramatic in photos, but simply leads to a fisherman’s cottage on a small island. Even though the bridge was closed, we wondered if we could at least find a viewing point to see it. We set off in the light rain, with umbrella in hand.
Upon arrival, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that the hiking path over to the bridge was still open. We set off on our stroll, only passing the occasional fellow hiker, and taking in the incredible coastal views. We saw so many cliffs, some in bright shades of white; the water even managed to be a muted teal color, despite the gray sky.
There was a light drizzle and some wind the entire time, but the temperature was in the high 40’s F, and quite comfortable for hiking. The peaceful scenery was so lovely that we didn’t even miss crossing the actual bridge.
1pm-2pm: Warm up at a café
We were a little chilly after that rainy walk, so we made our way to the small town of Bushmills to find a café. We ducked into Lilly’s, ordering two cappuccinos and sharing a slice of carrot cake.
2pm-4pm: Giant’s Causeway Red Trail
With the rain lightening considerably, we returned to the Giant’s Causeway to hike the red trail. Unlike the blue trail, where we hiked down to the sea, the red trail continues for about two miles along the clifftops.
First, we needed to park a short ways down the street from the Visitor’s Center in a small lot belonging to the National Trust. It cost £5 to park via cash or credit card. Then we backtracked on foot to the Visitor’s Center to begin at the trailhead.
A short distance into our hike on the red trail, the absolutely stunning views were already unfolding before us. On one side we could see the rugged, craggy coast, with its rocky cliffs contrasting against the aqua sea. On the other was a continuous stretch of rolling green grass dotted with sheep.
That familiar waft of farmland (ie. cow dung) would occasionally hit our nostrils, and we’d hear the one-off lamb bleating somewhere nearby. The early spring greens were popping beautifully against the misty gray skies.
Finally, we reached a staircase that descended towards the rocky coastline below. Out of curiosity, we started down, but found that the staircase stopped halfway to the bottom at a new mystery path. We followed the new path to a larger-than-life rock formation, appropriately called “the Organ”.
Next, we turned back so we could continue the red trail to a lookout point at the far end of the cliffs. By the time we arrived, whether due to the hour or distance, there were no other hikers around us. In solitude, we took in the best views we’d seen of the Antrim Coast yet, lingering for a few minutes before heading back to our car.
4pm-5pm: Dunluce Castle
Having lost track of time, after our hike we realized it was already past 4 o’clock. Our next stop was Dunluce Castle, which would close at 5pm. With the last entry being at 4:30pm, we paid our £6/person entry fee with about ten minutes to spare.
Thankfully, this castle was nearly empty, save for one or two other couples. It is a ruin, and essentially a shell, with placards marking what each room used to be. Therefore, forty minutes ended up being plenty of time to make our way through all the spaces.
Building a castle right on the cliff does have its risks; over time, parts of the castle have collapsed into the sea. Despite its prime waterfront positioning, Dunluce Castle was not inhabited for long. The castle was built during the 16th and 17th centuries and abandoned by 1690.
5pm-6pm: Dark Hedges
Our next stop is a favorite destination for Game of Thrones fans. While my husband and I had never seen the show, there’s no denying a stroll through the Dark Hedges may make you feel as though you’ve entered an enchanted forest.
I was grateful to be visiting on an overcast day. The conditions created a moodiness that became the twisted branches of these eighteenth century beech trees.
Afterwards, we took a quick wander around Gracehill House across the street, to which the Dark Hedges used to be the entrance. While the house itself seemed void of activity, there was a shady, tree-lined path in front where I imagined fairies could live.
Today, the Dark Hedges are a public road for local traffic. However, tourists should not park or drive on this road. Instead, there is a free parking lot for cars just a short walk away; just watch for traffic, though, since the sidewalk is scant.
6pm-7pm: Wash Up for Dinner
It’s been a long day, so it’s a good idea to stop back at your lodging for a moment to get ready for dinner. My husband and I relished the chance to change out of our hiking clothes and clean ourselves a bit.
7pm-9pm: Dine Out in Portrush
For our last evening in Portrush, my husband and I dined at Neptune and Prawn, which featured an unusual menu of both Asian and European cuisine. To start, we shared a delicious fried salt and pepper squid. For entrées, Aaron had fried rice with monkfish covered in a tasty orange sauce, and I had a steaming plate of Kung Po chicken.
To finish, we spilt the dessert trio, which featured a salted caramel tart, banoffee, and a chocolate mousse cake. Being lovers of sauce, we also ordered some raspberry and butterscotch flavors for dipping.
9pm: It’s a Wraaaaaap
Although there are pubs and bars in Portrush for those interested in nightlife, my husband and I turned in early. We needed to pack for our four-hour drive to Dublin the next morning, which was to be the last stop of our ten day Ireland road trip.
If you too are planning to head to Dublin after Portrush, the route is direct and mostly highway. You will pass through Belfast, which is a worthy stop to visit Titanic Belfast or the Ulster Museum. We personally chose to make a detour into Trim, a storybook medieval village with the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland.
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That does it for this quick 36-hour journey on the Antrim Coast in Northern Ireland. I admit, it is a bit out of the way when also visiting the Republic of Ireland. However, if you love gorgeous hikes and miles of coastal scenery, then it’s totally worth it.
